AfteR Care
Lawn Care After Your Service
Aeration • Dethatching • Overseeding • Fertilization
Pacific Northwest Lawns
Proper aftercare is critical to achieving the best results from aeration, dethatching, seeding, and fertilization. Following the guidelines below will help ensure strong germination, healthy root development, and long-term lawn improvement.
Core Aeration Aftercare
After aeration, leave the soil plugs on the lawn. These plugs will naturally break down over time and help improve soil structure, reduce compaction, and return nutrients to the root zone.
What to Expect
Soil plugs may remain visible for up to two weeks
Rainfall and regular mowing will help them break down naturally
No additional cleanup is required
You may resume normal lawn use shortly after aeration, avoiding heavy traffic if possible.
Dethatching Aftercare
After dethatching, it is normal for the lawn to look thin or stressed. This is temporary and part of the process.
Important Notes
Dethatching removes built-up organic material, allowing water, air, and nutrients to reach the soil
This is the ideal time to aerate, overseed, and fertilize
Dethatching does not kill moss; moss control products may be applied after service if needed
Avoid heavy traffic on the lawn for several days following dethatching.
Overseeding & Watering (PNW-Optimized Schedule)
Consistent and proper watering is the single most important factor in successful seed germination. New seed must remain moist during early establishment.
Phase 1 — Germination (Days 1–14)
Goal: Keep the soil surface consistently moist.
Frequency: 2–4 light waterings per day
Duration: 5–10 minutes per zone per watering
Timing: Early morning, late morning, early evening
Notes:
Soil should remain damp at the surface at all times
Do not allow the seed to dry out
Light rain does not always replace irrigation—check soil moisture by hand
Phase 2 — Establishment (Weeks 3–4)
Goal: Encourage shallow roots to begin growing deeper.
Frequency: 1–2 waterings per day
Duration: 10–15 minutes per zone
Notes:
Allow the surface to dry slightly between waterings
Reduce frequency gradually, not abruptly
Phase 3 — Root Development (Weeks 5–6)
Goal: Build deeper, stronger roots.
Frequency: Every other day
Duration: 20–30 minutes per zone
Notes:
Water deeper and less often
Roots should now be anchoring into the soil
Phase 4 — Normal Lawn Schedule (After Week 6)
Goal: Maintain healthy, resilient turf.
Frequency: 2-4 times per week
Duration: 20-30 minutes per zone
Notes:
Adjust based on rainfall and temperatures
Deep, infrequent watering is preferred in the PNW
- Summer months baseline of 1.5 inches of water per week
Pacific Northwest Watering Notes
Clay soils retain moisture—avoid overwatering once grass is established
Sloped areas may require shorter, repeated cycles to prevent runoff
Keep pets and heavy foot traffic off newly seeded areas until established
Fertilization Aftercare
Starter fertilizer applied during service is designed to support new grass growth for up to 10–12 weeks.
Do Not:
Apply additional fertilizer during this period unless instructed
Use weed-and-feed products on new grass (wait at least 3 months)
- Use lawn until fully dissolved for safety
Over-fertilizing can burn seedlings and weaken root development.
Mowing Aftercare
Proper mowing encourages thicker, healthier turf.
When to Mow
Begin mowing once new grass reaches 3–3.5 inches
How to Mow
Never remove more than ⅓ of the blade height
Start with the mower set high, lowering gradually over time
Change mowing direction each time
Avoid mowing when soil is overly wet
Cutting grass too short stresses turf and promotes weeds and moss.
General Aftercare Tips
Minimize heavy foot traffic during early establishment
Rain can replace watering if the soil remains moist—always check before irrigating
Aeration plugs and thatch debris will break down naturally with time
Lawn improvement is gradual—full results develop over several weeks and can vary depending on individual property conditions
What to Expect
Seed germination typically occurs within 7–21 days, depending on conditions
Lawn density and color will continue improving over the following weeks
Proper watering and mowing are essential to long-term success
Quick Aftercare Checklist
☑ Leave aeration plugs on the lawn
☑ Follow the watering schedule closely
☑ Avoid extra fertilizer for ~10-12 weeks
☑ Mow high once grass reaches 3–3.5 inches
☑ Limit traffic during establishment
Following this aftercare guide will maximize the effectiveness of your service and help establish a healthier, more resilient lawn suited for Pacific Northwest conditions.
Lawn Aftercare Troubleshooting FAQ
Pacific Northwest Lawns
My grass seed hasn’t germinated yet. Is something wrong?
Germination typically takes 7–21 days depending on temperature, sunlight, and moisture. Cooler weather and shaded areas common in the Pacific Northwest can slow emergence. Inconsistent watering or allowing the soil surface to dry out is the most common cause of delayed germination.
What to do:
Resume the Phase 1 watering schedule and keep the soil surface consistently moist. Be patient—cool-season grasses take time.
Some areas are growing while others are bare. Why?
Uneven germination is normal early on. Differences in soil, shade, sprinkler coverage, and foot traffic can affect results.
What to do:
Check sprinkler coverage and continue consistent watering. Most areas will fill in as the lawn establishes.
My lawn looks thin or rough after dethatching. Did something go wrong?
No. Temporary thinning is expected after dethatching. Removing built-up thatch allows air, water, and nutrients to reach the soil.
What to do:
Follow the watering schedule and avoid heavy traffic. Overseeding and fertilization help the lawn recover and thicken.
There are dirt plugs all over my lawn after aeration. Should I remove them?
No. Aeration plugs should be left in place. They naturally break down and improve soil structure.
What to do:
Rainfall and mowing will disperse the plugs over time. Do not rake or remove them.
My lawn feels muddy or stays soggy.
This usually indicates overwatering, especially in clay-heavy Pacific Northwest soils.
What to do:
Reduce watering frequency and allow the surface to dry slightly between cycles. Once seed is established, transition to deeper, less frequent watering.
The soil keeps drying out even though I’m watering.
Light watering may not be frequent enough during germination, especially in sun or wind.
What to do:
Increase watering frequency using short, light cycles. Always check moisture by hand—not just by schedule.
I still see moss after dethatching.
Dethatching can remove organic buildup, loose debris and moss but does not kill moss.
What to do:
Moss control products may be applied after service if needed. Overseeding and proper lawn care help grass outcompete moss over time.
Weeds are appearing with the new grass. Can I treat them?
Some weed presence is normal during establishment.
Important:
Do not use weed-and-feed or herbicides on new grass.
What to do:
Allow grass to mature for 8–12 weeks. Proper mowing and fertilization will reduce weeds naturally.
When can I mow my lawn?
Mow once new grass reaches 3–3.5 inches.
Mowing tips:
Never remove more than ⅓ of the blade height
Start with the mower set high
Avoid mowing when the soil is wet
Should I apply more fertilizer?
No. Starter fertilizer applied during service feeds the lawn for up to 10–12 weeks.
Applying additional fertilizer too soon can:
Burn seedlings
Weaken root